Our first temple experience came upon us suddenly on the way back from Agra. Meg and I had both dozed off in the back of the car exhausted from the day and the stress of Delhi. Suddenly the car pulled over, Lucky told us to get out and said "Shoes off, Shoes off!".
We got out on the sidewalk, gave our shoes to a man sitting behind a fence, who gave lucky a ticket, walked a few feet to an old woman selling what looked to be plates of flowers. Lucky picked three out and had us pay the woman a few rupees. We followed Lucky through a gate, into a small open courtyard surrounded by a few low buildings connected by roofed walkways. We weaved our way through the complex, and as I started to wake up, I realized people were singing. Repeating a mantra, the only word of which I could catch was "Krishna".
The temple was packed. A white marble room with red and yellow rugs and decorations, three golden figures of gods in three alcoves behind a little fence. We pushed our way to the back, gave our flower plates, which turned out to be long garlands of strung flowers, to the priest, who put some on the god, and blessed three and gave them back. All the while the people were singing, and a group of young boys were starting a circular dance in the middle. We put on our blessed garlands and stopped to watch.
The temple was packed. A white marble room with red and yellow rugs and decorations, three golden figures of gods in three alcoves behind a little fence. We pushed our way to the back, gave our flower plates, which turned out to be long garlands of strung flowers, to the priest, who put some on the god, and blessed three and gave them back. All the while the people were singing, and a group of young boys were starting a circular dance in the middle. We put on our blessed garlands and stopped to watch.
Well that was plan atleast, thirty seconds later a teenage brahmin with a queue (the hairstyle, not a line) pulled me into the center. Excited to be a part of it, I danced around as best I could, locked hands with the kid, and we spun around as fast as I could. I made my way back out to Meg and Lucky, and we watched for a while, then headed back to the car.
I can say in all honesty that it was the most spiritual event of my life. The energy of the place was intoxicating. Everyone was joyous and ebullient, dancing and singing, and happy to see us. It took weeks for the feeling of excitment and happiness I got whenever I thought back to the temple to fade.
To be clear, this wasn't a temple frequented by tourists. This is a roadside temple our guide goes to. We were the only people there not from that area, much less not from India. Lucky, for all that he wanted to kidnap us to his hotel and charge us extra for tours really had a strong desire to show us what he considered the "real" India. The culture he was proud of.
The rest of the drive back, we got drunk (everyone but the driver) and talked about Lucky's daughter, how he wants her to be educated and independent, an equal partner to her husband like Meg is to me. We talked about what Lucky thought the problems facing India were. Number 1 was pollution. Immediately after telling us that, he pitched an empty beer bottle (650ml) out of the window of the moving car, not even checking for people on scooters. This was the second night of the trip, and it was one of the most memorable and powerful nights of my life.
I can say in all honesty that it was the most spiritual event of my life. The energy of the place was intoxicating. Everyone was joyous and ebullient, dancing and singing, and happy to see us. It took weeks for the feeling of excitment and happiness I got whenever I thought back to the temple to fade.
To be clear, this wasn't a temple frequented by tourists. This is a roadside temple our guide goes to. We were the only people there not from that area, much less not from India. Lucky, for all that he wanted to kidnap us to his hotel and charge us extra for tours really had a strong desire to show us what he considered the "real" India. The culture he was proud of.
The rest of the drive back, we got drunk (everyone but the driver) and talked about Lucky's daughter, how he wants her to be educated and independent, an equal partner to her husband like Meg is to me. We talked about what Lucky thought the problems facing India were. Number 1 was pollution. Immediately after telling us that, he pitched an empty beer bottle (650ml) out of the window of the moving car, not even checking for people on scooters. This was the second night of the trip, and it was one of the most memorable and powerful nights of my life.
My other temple experiences were all visiting active temples during the day. As far as I can tell, Hindu temples are built with places for people to go an pray or reflect by themselves. There are shrines, but no big single building for group worship like a church.
We went to Chaturshringi in Pune, and a temple in Mahabaleshwar and a few smaller shrines. When the rickshaw drops you off at Chaturshringi, you're on a road underneath a big gate that leads into a wide courtyard ending in a hill. On either side are shops selling offering plates, most of which consist of garlands, coconuts, colored powders, and ribbons. You buy a plate, leave you shoes with the shopkeeper (or at the shoe check, but somehow I felt better leaving them at the store that wanted their plate back) and head into the temple. This involves walking up a hundred steps, past little fountains and benches, and a shrine to Ganesh. When you get to the top, there is a main building and four shrines on little hills around it (Chaturshringi means mountain with four peaks). The main shrine is a white tiled room, with orange plastic benches on the back, and metal railings dividing it up into lines. Yeah I'm aware that sounds like a bus station. All around the walls are paintings and drawings in many styles and many levels of artistry of the goddess. You can stop on the benches and pray and then line up and approach the shrine with two golden idols, already covered in garlands and offerings from people before you. You give you offerings to the god and goddess, tapping your finger in the red powder and touching your forehead between your eyes. The attending priest will give you back some portion of your offering, so you can take it home to your local or personal shrine. You can then pray, exit the room, and head to the surrounding shrines. Or you can start running up and down the steps in your track suits for exercise, like two guys were doing while we were there.
Tomorrow we head to a huge and busy temple, Sri Meenakshi Sundareshwar in the temple city of Madurai. We've spent the past few days looking at icons of South India's religious past, and I'm excited to just stand around tomorrow, watching the crowds in the temple, seeing a modern and active part of South India. Interesting side note, I'm currently writing this from the bed of Royal Court hotel, owned by an Islamic hotel group. This fact was explained to us when we checked in so that we would know they didn't serve alcohol. My first thought was, "I'll bet they have meat!" Turns out that after a few days of no meat, I'll gladly trade alcohol for a "non-veg" menu.
We went to Chaturshringi in Pune, and a temple in Mahabaleshwar and a few smaller shrines. When the rickshaw drops you off at Chaturshringi, you're on a road underneath a big gate that leads into a wide courtyard ending in a hill. On either side are shops selling offering plates, most of which consist of garlands, coconuts, colored powders, and ribbons. You buy a plate, leave you shoes with the shopkeeper (or at the shoe check, but somehow I felt better leaving them at the store that wanted their plate back) and head into the temple. This involves walking up a hundred steps, past little fountains and benches, and a shrine to Ganesh. When you get to the top, there is a main building and four shrines on little hills around it (Chaturshringi means mountain with four peaks). The main shrine is a white tiled room, with orange plastic benches on the back, and metal railings dividing it up into lines. Yeah I'm aware that sounds like a bus station. All around the walls are paintings and drawings in many styles and many levels of artistry of the goddess. You can stop on the benches and pray and then line up and approach the shrine with two golden idols, already covered in garlands and offerings from people before you. You give you offerings to the god and goddess, tapping your finger in the red powder and touching your forehead between your eyes. The attending priest will give you back some portion of your offering, so you can take it home to your local or personal shrine. You can then pray, exit the room, and head to the surrounding shrines. Or you can start running up and down the steps in your track suits for exercise, like two guys were doing while we were there.
Tomorrow we head to a huge and busy temple, Sri Meenakshi Sundareshwar in the temple city of Madurai. We've spent the past few days looking at icons of South India's religious past, and I'm excited to just stand around tomorrow, watching the crowds in the temple, seeing a modern and active part of South India. Interesting side note, I'm currently writing this from the bed of Royal Court hotel, owned by an Islamic hotel group. This fact was explained to us when we checked in so that we would know they didn't serve alcohol. My first thought was, "I'll bet they have meat!" Turns out that after a few days of no meat, I'll gladly trade alcohol for a "non-veg" menu.
Obviously this is all from my perspective, with books, the internet, and helpful people who don't speak English as my sources for the statements not covered by my personal experience.
ReplyDeleteI am so glad to hear that you are having such a wonderful adventure!..and glad to know where you are! Keep the updates coming...Love you two!
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